Mary Taylor-Pascal Biotteau Anjou BlancMary Taylor
The bouquet is bright and nicely high-toned in personality out of the blocks, wafting from the glass in a mix of apple, sweet quince, chalky soil tones, a touch of bee pollen and a topnote of white lilies. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and rock solid at the core, with excellent transparency and cut, zesty acids and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish.
Varietal: 100% Chenin Blanc
Geographically, the region is divided into two dominant profiles, based on soil types. The first of these, “Anjou Blanc,” lies toward the west of the appellation, where chalky limestone soils impart a lighter, more energetic expression of Chenin. Then there’s “Anjou Noir,” referring to the dark volcanic schist soils of the easternmost edge of the Massif Armorican, where Chenin assumes a richer, more full-bodied character. Sourced from vineyards that fall exactly along the border of these two sub-regions, this gorgeously subtle white from fourth-generation winemaker Pascal Biotteau comes from the village of Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets, situated on the old Roman road from Angers to Poitiers.
When the property was sold to the local Cardinal in 1576, he put up an old Latin sign that translates to “Here by conscience and wisdom all things are conducted.” Today, that phrase perfectly describes the work being done by Pascal and his son Charles-Eusebe, who farm their 200 hectares of vines with great attention to the expression of their unique terroir. Combining the fresh acidity of the “Anjou Blanc’s” limestone with the flinty, mouth-coating richness of the “Anjou Noir,” the estate’s classic style offers a beautiful composite picture of Anjou as a whole, with honeyed notes of apricot giving way to a tangy mineral finish. The sort of classic “bistro wine” wine that you’d dream of drinking on a warm summer evening in Paris, it’s fantastic for fresh goat-cheese salads, fish in cream sauce, or even herb-roasted pork or chicken. Just don’t serve it too cold, according to Mary, to avoid masking its full depth and aromatic complexity.